Software Vault: The Gold Collection/Software Vault - The Gold Collection (American Databankers) (1993).ISO/cdr11/wineinfo.zip/VINT85.RG

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THE WINE TASTER
By Robin Garr
The Courier-Journal, March 22, 1989

     After we suffered through the drought and burning heat of 1988 and
gaped at the topsy-turvy temperatures and winter floods of 1989, it gets kind
of hard to remember that the world has sometimes basked under a kinder,
gentler climate.

     Wine lovers can find a delicious reminder, however, in the fine red
wines of 1985 that are now widely available.

     In a rare series of climatic coincidences, 1985 brought nearly perfect
grape-growing weather to virtually all the world's wine regions.

     From Bordeaux and Burgundy in France to Northern Italy, along the Rhine
and the Mosel in Germany and throughout California, nature smiled kindly on
most of the world's wine regions that year, and now wine tasters may reap the
benefits in consistently enjoyable wine.

     Remember, though, it's useful to know a little something about vintage,
but it's dangerous to follow vintage charts slavishly.

     For one thing, most good wineries make decent wine in "off" years, and
you'll miss many a bargain if you shun all but the great vintages.

     For another, many white wines, a few light reds and all "blush" wines
should be drunk as young as possible.

     Some of the finest Chardonnays and a few of the best Rieslings benefit
from a few years' ago, but most don't. Shun 1985 White Zinfandel, simple
Beaujolais and generic white table wines, for example; after four years
they'd be tired at best, geriatric at worst.

     On the other hand, buy with confidence, if the price is right, among
1985 California Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel or Pinot Noir; French
Bordeaux (or Burgundy, if you can find it); Chianti Classico or German Rhines
and Mosels with the "QmP" designation on the label). As a general rule, these
wines should be exceptional and capable of further aging.



(5 stars) Furst von Metternich Schloss Johannisberg
Rheingau Riesling Kabinett, 1985. (Reece-ling Kab-ee-net.) This clear,
bright-gold wine offers an excellent, perfumed scent of pine with hints of
wildflowers and honeysuckle. Almost decadent fruit bursts in its crisp, juicy
flavor, and its slight sweetness is balanced by crisp acidity. A melonlike
muskiness develops in a pleasant aftertaste that seems to linger for 60
seconds. An outstanding example of German wine, it's excellent now and would
gain wondrous complexity for anyone patient enough to cellar it for a decade.
($11.55)


(4 stars) Innisfree Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1985.
(Cab-air-nay So-veen-yawn.) Add this delicious wine to the short list of
special bargains under $10. It's a winner from its rich, dark-garnet color to
its luscious wild-cherry scent and mouth-filling flavor. Cedar, pine and ripe
fruit mingle in a crisp, properly acidic wine that's excellent now and will
gain even more style with up to a decade's aging. ($8.29)



(4 stars) Chateau Meyney Saint-Estephe, 1985.
(San-tess-teff.) This clear, dark-garnet wine's fresh aroma offers the
classic Bordeaux scents of cedar and tobacco, almost like a cigar box. Its
flavor balances abundant fruit and crisp acidity with puckery (but palatable)
tannin to ensure that it will age for at least five years. ($11.99)



(4 stars) Vichon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1985.
This dark, almost opaque garnet wine has a delicious scent of cedar with
chocolate and mint overtones. Its mouth-filling flavor is laden with ripe
fruit and laced with heavy tannin, suggesting a decade's aging to reach its
greatest potential, but it's delightful now, especially after an hour's
"breathing" in the glass. ($10.79)



(3 1/2 stars) Chateau La Tour de By Medoc, 1985.
(May-dawk.) This clear, dark-garnet wine has an earthy, mossy
scent of cedar, pine and leather. Its crisp, delicate flavor balances fresh
fruit and tart acidity. ($10.89)



(3 1/2 stars) Chateau du Moulin Rouge Haut-Medoc, 1985. This
clear, dark-garnet wine has a cedary, earthy aroma of Cabernet Sauvignon and
an appetizing fresh-fruit flavor with a hint of anise and crisp fruit acid.
($8.99)


(3 1/2 stars) Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Bernkaesteler Badstube Mosel Riesling
Spatlese, 1985. (Shpate-lay-zuh.) This clear, very pale brass-colored wine
breathes the appealing apple and floral scents of a good Mosel. Its slight
sweetness is balanced with crisp acidity in a delicious, fresh-fruit flavor
that's sweet but not the least cloying. ($9.49)


(3 1/2 stars) Steltzner Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1985.
A strong smell and taste of eucalyptus is not so much a flaw as a startling
idiosyncracy in this clear, dark plum-colored wine. Mint and a touch of
vanilla mingle with the eucalyptus aroma, and the flavor bursts with ripe
fruit, lemony acidity and abundant tannin. I suspect this wine will develop
into a winner in three to five years, but it's a bit off-putting at this
stage in its development. ($13.69)



(3 stars) Chateau de Sales Pomerol, 1985. (Pom-ay-rawl.) This
clear, light-garnet wine breathes a delicious scent of wild cherries and
pine. Its soft, simple flavor is full of fruit but light and a bit short on
acidity and shows little potential for cellaring. ($13.29)



     "The Wine Taster" appears every other Wednesday in the Louisville
Courier-Journal Food Section. Wine and Food Critic Robin Garr rates table
wines available in the Louisville area, using a one- to five-star scale
determined by quality and value. Send suggestions or questions in care of The
Courier-Journal, 525 W. Broadway, Louisville, Ky. 40202, call [phone],


or leave a message for 73125,70.